On pools with cartridge filters or pools with a booster pump running the cleaning system you may need to clean the module in the water valve periodically. To do this turn off the pool pumps.  Remove the clamp and lid of the water valve and then remove the module in the valve base.  Note; on a system with more than one water valve one of the modules will be special and have a bridge(s) onthe top of the module, this must be replaced in the same base in the same exact orientation.  Put the module in the pool water sideways and swish it back and forth fast about 5 times.  Turn it upside down and push (never rotate) the any protruding pistons back against the bottom plate.   Spin the gear closest to the center pin on the top of the module to confirm rotation and gear mesh. Replace the module into the base.  Clean the O-ring and lid and replace it and the clamp.  Note: While tightening the nut on the band clamp you must tap on the clamp as you tighten the nut starting on the opposite side from the nut.  This will allow the clamp to draw up evenly. Sometimes the O-ring will swell larger than the groove and will not fit. You must replace a swollen O-ring.

Turn off the pool pump. Open the valve shell by removing the band clamp. Remove the module. Put it in the pool water side ways and swish it back and forth as fast as you can about 5 to 6 times. Turn it upside down and if a piston is open push it straight down: never rotate it.  Spin the gear closest to the center pin clockwise. Re-install it.

There are two things to look for when a piston fails. A head or set of heads will stay in the up position until the pump is turned off and then they will drop down, and the pressure on the gauge of the water valve will be less than normal. The second is if the valve fails to rotate but the pressure on the gauge is still normal (minimum of 14 but preferred 19 to 20).
Exception: the PCC system may have one, two, or three fixed nozzles that are opposite the main drain that are not cycled by the water valve.

1. On a single water valve if the water valve stops on one port or circuit shut off the pump and open the water valve. Remove the module and rinse it in the pool or with a hose and reinstall it one position clockwise and close the water valve and restart the pump.  If it goes back to the same set of nozzles and stops again then that is a sign that the circuit has a blocked or improperly sized nozzle(s) and that the water valve module is not the problem. Remove the nozzle(s) on that circuit (keeping in mind that each nozzle must go back in the exact same body from where it was removed.  Check the nozzles for debris or jet size. See nozzle sizing
2. On a dual water valve on the same pump, if the nozzles stay up when there is only pressure on the one valve then that is the module that at the very least need to be cleaned. And may need replacement. If the problem exists only when both valves have pressure, then it is most likely the second valve module. The module with the port connectors should be the first valve. (picture) These modules with the connectors cannot be rotated to test. Rinse them and put them back in the correct orientation.
3. On a three-valve system on the same pump, if the 2-port valve is not switching from one valve to the other it is most likely the 2-port 5 gear module. Take the 2-port module out and spin the gear closest to the center pin clockwise to make sure it is not obstructed with debris
4. On any water valve if you see one port on the valve gauge jump more than a couple psi higher than the rest of the ports that is a sign of that nozzle(s) or circuit being partly blocked or someone not putting a nozzle(s) back in the same body it came out of.

1. You can order pressure test plugs to replace the nozzles on that circuit in the pool so there will be no leak from those nozzles.Note: the water valve will also have to be addressed so it will not dead nozzle (stop, have very high pressure, and damage pool equipment) at the blocked circuit.  There are two ways to do this.
2. Cut the line going to that circuit and tee it into another line. A cap should be placed over the line going to the pool and the line coming from the valve is tied into another line.
3. Cut and cap the line that is blocked below the valve shell. Then cut the vein separating the ports inside the water valve base from that port to the port clockwise for it. A cap should be placed over the line going to the pool.

1. If you turn off the pump and they go down, then that is probably a module. If they stay up, then that is a nozzle.
2. If your system is PV3 and you have a salt pool, then the nozzle staying up could be a gasket on the nozzle that salt can attack and make soft and sticky. Remove the nozzle to inspect and replace the gasket if it is interfering with the nozzle. Part number 005-627-0060-00 for a pack of 4.

Refer to the Module Replacement Guide 

The water valve housing does not need a module in place to have water go through it. Remove the module and replace the seal lid and clamp, and water will be sent to all return points in the pool, so you will have circulation but no cleaning action until the module is replaced.

Take it apart and clean the O-ring and both the base with the O-ring grove and the lid of the water valve, then when you put it together tap on the clamp on the opposite sides of the clamp from the nut you are tightening to make it draw up properly, while tightening the nut. If the valve still leaks call 800-621-5886 for customer support.
NEVER STAND OVER ANY POOL EQUIPMENT WHEN TURNING ON THE PUMP!

If you have a cracked lid shut off the pool pump and replace the lid before running the pump again. A cracked lid must be replaced as soon as possible because if it fails all the way it can come off and hurt someone near it or the pool could be partly drained and damage the pool equipment, the deck, or the interior finish and landscaping.

1. First try cleaning or replacing the valve O-ring and while tightening the nut on the band clamp you must tap on the clamp as you tighten the nut starting on the opposite side from the nut. This will allow the clamp to draw up evenly. Sometimes the O-ring will swell larger than the groove and will not fit. You must replace a swollen O-ring.
2. If it is still leaking, then the base may be cracked at the flange for the clamp. This requires a pool professional to replace. Note:  A cracked lid must be replaced as soon as possible because if it fails all the way it can come off and hurt someone near it or the pool could be partly drained and damage the pool equipment, the deck, or the interior finish and landscaping.

The special winterizing plugs for 2 inch water valves are part number 004-302-1670-00 and you will need six of them per water valve.

Click on this link for winterizing instructions

Anywhere from 14 psi to 24 psi with maximum cleaning happening about 18 to 22 psi with the correct nozzle sizes installed.
NOTE: Nozzle size will affect the psi on the system and how well it cleans. The system is designed and specified with certain sizes at each location. Consult the Paramount supplied plan for correct sizes.
NOTE: DISTANCE FROM THE POOL AND PIPE SIZE AS WELL AS NUMBER OF TURNS IN THE PIPE (90 degree ells) can all increase or decrease the pressures and a clean pool is the true test.

The normal range is 17 to 25 psi. The pressure may vary than this range depending on what PSI it takes to properly clean the pool.

Normal life span of a module is an average 5 to 8 years. This is an average depending on conditions you may need to replace it sooner or later than that. If the system is working fine you don’t need to replace the module.

The three pistons on the module that are attached together on top with a connector must be centered over the cut out section of the valve base with the two plugged holes and an open hole between them.

You can download the Paramount Water Valve here.

All modules have five gears but there is two configurations of these gears for a “STANDARD and CONTROL” module. The STANDARD module rotates clockwise. The CONTROL module rotates counter-clockwise.

Each time the water valve switches; the next port opens before the one that has finished shuts off. The Paramount water valve always operates so that the system is pressure safe.

When the water valve is changing ports two pistons are open at the same time which changes the water flow to almost double the GPM. That will make a louder sound during that time. When the lagging port closes you may hear a swoosh sound or whistle as it shuts tight.

Placing the water valve next to the pool greatly reduces the quantity of pipe necessary to plumb the system. It also allows easier servicing of the system with the pause knob readily available to the pool area.

1. Check the run pause switch on the top of the water valve lid and make sure it is in the Run position. (picture)
2. Make sure the gauge pressure is in the 17 to 25 psi range.When in this range the valve should switch about every 45 to 60 seconds.
3. Try cleaning the Module and make sure the gears will rotate when you spin the one closest to the center pin.
4. Normal life span of a module is an average 5 to 8 years. This is an average depending on conditions you may need to replace it sooner or later than that.
5. If the gauge pressure is way higher than normal on the water valve especially on one port, then a nozzle or nozzles may be blocked with debris. To test this, remove the module (Six port modules only) On a single water valve if the water valve stops on one port or circuit shut off the pump and open the water valve. Remove the module and rinse it in the pool or with a hose and reinstall it one position clockwise and close the water valve and restart the pump.   If it goes back to the same set of nozzles and stops again then that is a sign that the circuit has a blocked or improperly sized nozzle(s) and that the water valve module is not the problem. Remove the nozzle(s) on that circuit (keeping in mind that each nozzle must go back in the exact same body from where it was removed.  Check the nozzles for debris or jet size.

The switch is the pause feature; use it to stop the valve on a selected zone. This is helpful when you want the pool to have circulation but may not want nozzles popping up under foot. In addition, service technicians may use it to troubleshoot the system.